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Q. Which is better for reducing wrinkles: a smooth but potent cleanser or a more abrasive scruffing cleanser? A. Both. The bottom line is a commitment to the continuous process of exfoliation if you want to achieve skin that is radiant and glowing with minimal lines. . A quality cleanser not only removes makeup, excess oil, and environmental dust and dirt, but it also contributes to a gentle removal of dead surface skin cells which dull your skin and increase the appearance of fine lines. It is the latter process of exfoliation that encourages cellular renewal and thus younger, more glowing skin. Cleansers are integral to this, but you must understand the process of exfoliation, which falls into two categories: chemical and mechanical. Chemical exfoliation is achieved with the use of products that contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA). These cosmetic superstars rejuvenate skin by removing excess surface cells, promote cellular turnover, increase collagen production (for smoother, firmer skin), reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tones, and contribute to general skin health. The most commonly used AHAs are glycolic, lactic, malic, tartaric, and citric acids. Lactic acid is found in milk (thus the effectiveness of Cleopatra’s famous beauty milk baths). Sugar cane provides glycolic acid, and others are derived from fruits such as apples and grapes. Salicylic acid is the most common BHA and occurs naturally in many plants, such as Black Willow Bark, but it can also be synthetically made. It has antimicrobial and anti-fungal properties, improves collagen production, and is an effective skin-sloughing agent. Salicylic acid has the ability to penetrate pores (unlike AHAs) and clean them from the inside out which makes it an important ingredient for reducing blemishes, blackheads, whiteheads, and razor bumps. Mechanical exfoliation by any other name is a form of dermabrasion. It is especially useful for skin that is sun stressed, splotchy, discolored, or scarred. Classically, it is a medical cosmetic procedure in which the uppermost skin surface is removed by intense sanding. It is costly, painful, and requires a period of healing. Lasers are kinder with little down time, but still require the expense and expertise of a professional.
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