Orders placed between October 8 - October 22 will be shipped on October 23.

Glossary A-L

  • Alpha Lipoic Acid

    ALA is in the top ten most powerful antiaging antioxidants available. It is four hundred times more powerful than Vitamins C and E, both known as antioxidant superpowers themselves. ALA is unique in that it is both fat and water soluble which means it can protect and penetrate cell membranes and then be equally valuable within the cell itself. It blocks the production of enzymes that damage collagen fibers, preserving a smooth skin surface. The importance of this metabolic antioxidant powerhouse is hard to overstate.

    Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate (AAP)

    Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphate (AAP) is a revolutionary new derivative of Vitamin C designed to improve the effectiveness and stability of Vitamin C and provide superior effectiveness. It is safe, non-toxic, and non-irritating to the skin. Clinical studies have demonstrated that AAP effectively reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, significantly reduces melanin production which causes hyperpigmentation, i.e. age spots, stimulates the synthesis of type I collagen, and is more potent than water soluble Vitamin E in inhibiting hydroxyl free radicals. With its excellent stability and performance, AAP is a formidable skin treatment active.

    Argireline

    Argireline has worked such wonders in reducing the degree of existing facial wrinkles and preventing their development that is marketed at the “Botox Alternative.” It is a unique peptide which moderates excessive catecholamines release, a unique mechanism that relaxes facial tension leading to a reduction in superficial facial lines and wrinkles with regular use. It reduces the severity of wrinkles around the eyes, up to 17% after 15 days of treatment and up to 27% after 30 days of treatment. It reduces the depth of wrinkles on the face caused by the contraction of muscles of facial expression, especially in the forehead and around the eyes. It prevents skin aging induced by repeated facial movements caused by excessive catecholamine release.

  • Boron Nitride

    Boron Nitride is a soft, silky white mineral powder. It is an inert compound useful in foundations, concealers, eye shadows, lipsticks, sunscreens, body powders, and skin creams. It is added to provide the following:

    -Increased adherence to skin.
    -Increased slip, to help the product glide onto the skin.
    -Increased smoothness and softness.
    -Soft-focus properties to minimize fine lines.
    -Oil-absorption.
    -Enhances the color of cosmetic pigments on the skin.

    The Environmental Working Group (EWG) gives this ingredient a score of “0,” which is its safest designation.

  • Canadian Natural Glacial Clay

    Origin: Canada

    Rare deposits of this treasured green-grey clay are found under thousands of years of glacier remnants only in Northern British Columbia, Canada. It is superior clay due to its infinitesimal particle size, rich mineral composition, and unique therapeutic power. It hermetically seals the skin with its microscopic particle elements and natural circulation brings all necessary nutrients and cell-regenerating oxygen to the surface and feeds the skin from within. It restores the surface layer (especially after sunburn) and increases moisture content of the outer stratum. The smoothing of age lines and wrinkles is significant, leaving your skin with a natural fresh glow. The amazing revitalizing properties of Canadian Natural Glacial Clay draw impurities from pores, leaving skin clean and rejuvenated.

    Caprylyl Glycol

    Skin-conditioning agent that may be plant-derived or synthetic. Often used as part of a preservative blend with phenoxyethanol and chloroxylenol, two preservatives that meet current global regulations. The Abbey only uses the plant derived ingredient.

    Castor Oil (Ricinus communis)

    Castor oil has been used for thousands of years, traced back to ancient Egypt, reportedly used by Cleopatra to brighten her eyes. It is rich in fatty acids that make it protective, softening, soothing, and lubricating for skin care formulations. It is a humectant that attracts moisture to the skin and is very rich in Vitamin E, which makes it excellent for fighting signs of aging. Ricinoleic acid is the main component of castor oil that exerts an anti-inflammatory effect. Folk medicine has used castor oil for centuries for a variety of ailments including topical applications for sunburns, skin eruptions, lesions, cuts, or abrasions. Massaged into the skin with the addition of heat, it has been used for abdominal complaints, headaches, and muscle pains. It is biodegradable and eco-friendly.

    Centellia asiatica (Gotu kola)

    See Gotu kola.

    Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera)

    Light and non-greasy, coconut oil is readily absorbed, will not clog pores, and is useful for dry, itchy, and sensitive skin. High in unsaturated fats, it is mild on sensitive skin, moisturizes, and protects the skin against moisture loss. Used for centuries by island dwellers in the Pacific, it leaves skin soft and smooth. Islanders also appreciated it as a hair conditioner, leaving it silky and soft. Often used to promote hair growth by massaging it into the scalp.

     

  • Dead Sea Mud/Clay

    Origin: Israel

    The Dead Sea is the lowest place on Earth. The region has a dense atmosphere rich in bromine and other elements, which filters ultraviolet B radiation from the Sun, reducing the danger of sunburn. The dense atmospheric pressure holds five percent more oxygen than air at sea level. The water of the Dead Sea contains 345 grams of mineral salts (magnesium, sodium, potassium and calcium being most prevalent) per liter and is approximately ten times higher in saline than ocean water. No plant or animal can survive in the waters. Bathers can easily float in the dense waters.

    The benefits of bathing in the Dead Sea are legendary. Psoriasis and eczema are two conditions particularly amenable to the benefits of the Dead Sea salts, clays, and mud. Calcium clarifies the outer epidermis and relieves pain, sodium balances its pH, chlorine is a natural antiseptic that boosts the skin’s protective layer and reduces swelling; magnesium enhances functioning of skin metabolism, facilitates breathing and protects against allergies; bromine is a muscle relaxant; potassium regulates the body’s water balance; iodine improves thyroid health and cell metabolism; sulphur detoxifies and stimulates the metabolism. People who live in Israel know that those who arrive too ill to venture into the sea often improve just by breathing in the air. Within days many can venture into the water.

    Dead Sea Salts

    Origin: Israel

    The Dead Sea is the lowest place on Earth. The region has a dense atmosphere rich in bromine and other elements, which filters ultraviolet B radiation from the Sun, reducing the danger of sunburn. The dense atmospheric pressure holds five percent more oxygen than air at sea level. The water of the Dead Sea contains 345 grams of mineral salts (magnesium, sodium, potassium and calcium being most prevalent) per liter and is approximately ten times higher in saline than ocean water. No plant or animal can survive in the waters. Bathers can easily float in the dense waters.

    The benefits of bathing in the Dead Sea are legendary. Psoriasis and eczema are two conditions particularly amenable to the benefits of the Dead Sea salts, clays, and mud. Calcium clarifies the outer epidermis and relieves pain, sodium balances its pH, chlorine is a natural antiseptic that boosts the skin’s protective layer and reduces swelling; magnesium enhances functioning of skin metabolism, facilitates breathing and protects against allergies; bromine is a muscle relaxant; potassium regulates the body’s water balance; iodine improves thyroid health and cell metabolism; sulphur detoxifies and stimulates the metabolism. People who live in Israel know that those who arrive too ill to venture into the sea often improve just by breathing in the air. Within days many can venture into the water.

    DMAE (Dimethylaminoethanol)

    Dr. Nicholas Perricone calls DMAE a “magic bullet for great skin tone, keeping your face firm and contoured.” DMAE is a building block of acetylcholine, a neurotransmitter that allows one nerve cell to communicate with another nerve or muscle cell. Acetylcholine stimulates muscle contraction and as we age, muscles elongate, loosen, and stretch, leading to sagging skin. DMAE helps raise natural levels of acetylcholine for more muscle tone and firmer skin. The effect of this powerful antioxidant is immediate and skin becomes less lined, firmer, and smoother. Eyes will be wider open and the sides of the face will be more contoured. Effects last eighteen to twenty-four hours but the benefits are cumulative and skin quality will continue to improve the longer you use this skin active. Some tingling is normal, but lack of tingle does not mean the DMAE is not doing its job.

  • Frankincense Essential Oil

    Botanical name: Boswellia carterii
    Source: India, North Africa, Europe
    Parts Used: Resin
    Production: Steam distillation
    Aroma: Balsamic, sweet-woody, rich, spicy.
    Properties: Antiseptic, anti-fungal, antioxidant, astringent, carminative, digestive, diuretic, expectorant, sedative, tonic, uterine.

    Frankincense (Boswellia carterii) was one of the most highly prized substances in the ancient world. It has a long history as incense [The term frankincense originates from the word franc (pure) and incensum (smoke)], burned by the Egyptians for its heady, resinous aroma and used for meditation and religious ceremonies. A strong aromatic, it slows respiration and is considered emotionally centering and calming. It was often used to fumigate the ill in order to drive out evil spirits (actually obsessions, fears, and anxieties manifested as physical symptoms) causing the sickness. Its relaxing effect on respiration makes it effective for those suffering from asthma or congestion. As an inhalant, it has a pronounced effect on the mucous membranes, which makes it a good expectorant.

    Ancient peoples quickly learned the value of frankincense in skin care. The Egyptians made rejuvenating face masks with it, and Ovid, the Roman poet, noted in his book on skin care (Medicamina Faciei) that frankincense was excellent for toilet purposes.

    Frankincense continues to be an impressive skin care ingredient. While often ignored in modern formularies, it is astringent, slightly anti-inflammatory, and has incredible ability to rejuvenate skin and eradicate wrinkles. Its antioxidant properties and cell regeneration abilities lead to smoother, more youthful skin. It tones and lifts skin to increase firmness and minimize pores, which is why the Egyptians used it in facial masks. Excellent for acne care because of its antiseptic properties.

    One of the more impressive benefits of frankincense in skin care is its ability to prevent and fade scars. It has been reported to reduce the appearance of discoloration and redness due to blemishes, irritation, and even stretch marks.

    India and North Africa continue to supply the highest quality frankincense oil. The small trees of frankincense originated in the mountainous areas of western India, southern Arabia, and northeastern Africa. The pale yellow or amber-green colored oil is also known as olibanum or boswellia. The resin originates from exposing the sap of the tree that becomes a gum upon exposure to air.

    French Green Clay
    Origin: France

    French Green Clay is by far one of the most majestic, most effective, and most commonly used mineral skin clays found throughout the global community. It contains a cornucopia of valuable elements, which include montmorillonite (highly absorbent clay that swells when water is added to it), magnesium, calcium, potassium, dolomite, silica, manganese, phosporous, silicon, copper, selenium, and as many as nine iron oxides. Green clay owes its coloration to two important factors: iron oxides and decomposed plant matter, making it a unique participant in the cycles of the earth. Color is crucial in determining the quality of French Green Clay. Any clay less then a nice earthy green color is considered a useless end product with little value in cosmetic preparations. The elements found in French Green are unique in that each dispenses its biological constituents to the outer epidermis of the skin in the most effective manner possible, unlike most other clays where the constituents work as one unit. The highly micronized molecular state of French Green Clay allows for far greater absorption of impurities, dust, oil, contaminants, and make up then other clays, cleaning out pores and leaving the skin smooth and soft. These properties makes French Green one of the most highly prized clays among health professional for treatment of the skin.

    Fuller’s Earth (Solum fullonum)

    Origin: USA

    Fuller’s Earth has an interesting history. It’s name originated in England, where in ancient times “fullers” would knead a mixture of earth clay and water into raw wool to clean it, and absorb dirt and lanolin.. The process was known as fulling, the practitioners were “fullers,” and the clay or earth became known as fuller’s earth.

    Fuller’s earth has a multitude of practical uses far beyond the beauty realm. It was sold in pharmacies until recently for compressing pills and it is sometimes used by mechanics to absorb grease and oil. Military forces use fuller’s earth to clean soldiers who are contaminated with chemical weapons. Hollywood uses large amounts of for special effects when simulating explosions as fine-grained fuller’s earth makes a much larger plume than ordinary dirt, suggesting a larger heavy rainfall.

    Do not be put off by all of this talk of mechanics and explosions. Cosmetic grade fuller’s earth is marvelous for skin. It outperforms any material to help clean pores. It is a naturally occurring sedimentary clay composed mainly of silica, alumina, iron oxides, lime, magnesium, and water. It has the incredible ability to remove oils and impurities from the skin and produces a lightening and brightening effect on the outer epidermal layer. (Products that advertise themselves as “skin bleaching” will usually contain fuller’s earth.) It is a very effective ingredient in facial cleansers and masks and is highly recommended for skin that is marked by discoloration, blemishes, or oiliness.

  • Geranium (Pelargonium graveolans) Essential Oil

    Geranium oil helps almost any skin type or skin condition. It promotes the regeneration of skin cells and stimulates both the lymphatic and circulatory systems making it valuable for mature skin, imparting a healthy glow to the complexion, making the skin appear radiant and more youthful. It is soothing to dry and/or sensitive skin. Because it helps combat sluggish circulation and waste accumulation, it speeds the healing of acne and blemishes or of skin that is dull and dry. It also helps balance excessive oil production in the skin. It improves the appearance of broken capillaries and varicose veins while helping to keep the skin smooth and supple. Geranium oil helps ease anxiety and its uplifting effect frees the mind from negative or depressing thoughts.

    Ginseng (Panax ginseng)

    Ginseng is a small, perennial plant that grows in the damp woodlands of Manchuria but is primarily cultivated in Korea. Ginseng is also cultivated in the United States (Panax quinquefolius) and Canada and is particularly prized in Chinese societies. Traditional Chinese medicine believe that American ginseng promotes yin (cold) energy, clears away excess yang (warm) energy and thus calms the body. The aromatic root can grow as long as two feet in length.

    The Chinese have steadfastly maintained that ginseng has great influence in curing a variety of ills for over five thousand years, a testament of time that continues to this day. Ginseng has been found to act as a true physiological proliferation which makes it a valuable additive to tonics and creams to revitalize stressed, aging, and wrinkled skin.

    Glycolic Acid

    Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) revolutionized skin care in the 1980’s with the discovery of their ability to dramatically improve the appearance of aging skin. Derived from foods, AHA’s are often overlooked in their role as antioxidants, but in addition to their own merits, they work synergistically with other antioxidants, enhancing their activity. AHA’s are now old news in the cosmetic world, but they are a skin care gift that keeps on giving.

    Glycolic acid, one of the most popular alpha hydroxy acids, is derived from sugar cane. When applied to the skin, it exfoliates the outer layers of dead cells providing a younger appearance. Renewal of cells correlates to skin that is softer, smoother, with fewer wrinkles. The benefits of glycolic acid though are not confined just to exfoliation:

    Glycolic acid:

    romotes collagen growth in the upper dermis, leading to up to 25% increase in skin thickness, which helps soften fine lines and wrinkles.
    -Enhances circulation, stimulates cellular growth, and reduces pore size.
    -Enhances the penetration of a variety of skin care actives, especially Vitamin C and alpha lipoic acid.
    -Repairs sun damaged skin, reduces redness, and prevents free radical damage caused by UVA exposure.
    -Reduces redness of rosacaea when used in low concentrations.
    -Reduces hyperpigmentation, blotchy discoloration, and age spots.
    -Helps relieve dry skin, dermatitis, and scaling skin disorders.
    -Reduces razor bumps and ingrown hairs, alleviating shaving problems.

    Facial skin peels with high concentrations (20%-50%) are popular skin renewal professional procedures, which are expensive and often irritating. Skin care products for home use are limited to 10% concentrations. Higher concentrations can lead to sun sensitivity and irritation.

    Our philosophy is that we value the benefits of alpha hydroxy acids in general and glycolic acid in particular. We have found that routine use of lower concentrations (1-5 per cent) is as effective in promoting younger, brighter skin as an intense peel, without the expense or side effects. Yes, the process initially takes weeks instead of minutes, but the results are amazing. Cleansers and toners are the vehicles we use to deliver daily doses of AHA. Results are noticed within the first week and maintained with no irritation and no discernible sun sensitivity for most.

    Twice daily applications of AHA toner provides the following results:
    -Smoother skin texture with fewer fine lines.
    -Dull skin will be renewed, fresher, and younger looking.
    -Uneven skin tones will become more uniform.
    -Redness will be reduced.
    -As collagen levels increase, skin will become firmer, wrinkles will be reduced.
    -Acne and blemish breakouts will subside, skin will become clearer, and acne scars and redness will fade. It is not unusual for blemishes to increase initially as the skin is cleaned of inflammatory agents, but the situation will continually improve.

    Abbey St. Clare provides glycolic and AHA benefits in the following products:
    -Aniba Cleanser, Tonic: Rosacaea control.
    -Essential Earth Elements Cleanser: Anti-aging, brightening, acne repair.
    -Green Tea Scruffing Milk Cleanser: Use 2-3 times weekly for smoother, brighter skin with fewer fine wrinkles. Excellent for scars and acne that is not inflamed.
    -Tea Tree Cleansing Gel: Acne, oil control.
    -Comfrey Tonic: Acne, oil control.
    -Ginseng Tonic: Best anti-aging toner ever. Brightening.
    -Vitamin C Tonic: Excellent all-skin daily toner for smoother, brighter, clearer skin.

    Gotu Kola (Centellia asiatica)

    Importance in skin care:
    -Increase skin elasticity and firmness.
    -Collagen production.
    -Reduce fine lines and wrinkles.
    -Support for wound healing.
    -Scar and stretch mark care.
    -Boosts circulation.

    Gotu kola is extracted from the Centellia asiatica swamp plant native to Sri Lanka, parts of Asia, and southern Africa. It has a long history in its native areas because of its anti-inflammatory properties which accelerate healing of a variety of cutaneous conditions.

    The clinical value is due to the effective constituents:
    -Asiaticosides (enhances wound repair, antioxidant levels in skin, collagen levels)
    -Triterpenoids (strengthens skin, increases blood supply, promotes collagen formation)
    -Glycosides (anti-inflammatory)
    -B vitamins, Vitamin K, and trace minerals magnesium, calcium, and sodium

    The amassed research on the use of gotu kola in skin care is small but impressive and its cosmetic usage is expected to increase. Its potential is promising due to its skin tightening and regenerative capacity, anti-wrinkling properties, and its ability to reduce blemishes due to acne. It increases tensile strength of skin and makes it resistant to sagging. Tough cutaneous cells also contribute to skin repair and improvement in the appearance of stretch marks. Preparations containing gotu kola extract show benefits for sun damaged skin, for skin hydration, and for the devitalizing effects of environmental stresses.

    Gotu kola is found in Abbey St. Clare Ginseng Tonic and Radical Creme.

    Grapeseed Oil (Vitis vinifer)

    Rich in vitamins, minerals, essential fatty acids, and higher levels of linoleic acid than other oils which makes it nourishing in formulations for stressed, dry, damaged, or aging skin. It is light, slightly astingent, and easily penetrates the skin. It possesses regenerative and restructuring qualities, helping skin cell membranes retain their natural epidermal and nerve structure. It is often used in massage oils as it is light, thin, and penetrates easily. It is especially useful for skin around the eyes, reducing the appearance of stretch marks, and as a lubricant for shaving.

  • Helichrysum italicum (Immortelle)

    Helichrysum is one of the strongest anti-inflammatory oils that is antifungal, antiviral, and antibacterial. It’s healing power is legendary as it decreases inflammation and encourages skin regeneration. It helps the skin respond to stress of any kind and mature skin responds especially well to helichyrsum’s restorative properties. It is especially useful in clearing the inflammation of acne. Helichrysum activates the right side of the brain, elevating awareness, dreaming, self-confidence, and opening the mind to new concepts and ideas.

    Hydrosols

    Hydrosols are healing waters with therapeutic benefits delivered in a gentle and safe format. They are produced during the distillation of plant material. As steam or boiling water moves through the plant, it nudges open the cellular structures that contain the essential oils and other components. The oils and components are carried with the steam and separate as the steam cools. The oil is easily separated from the cooled distillate. Once discarded as a by-product of oil production, the remaining waters contain micro-drops of essential oils as well as the water-soluble plant components, with herbal therapeutic benefits.Once discarded as a by-product of oil production, distillate waters contain the essence of the plant but in a milder form. Not only does this provide a more cost effective delivery of botanical benefits, but also allows a wider variety of applications where the intensity of essential oils would be too strong.

    Hydrosols are 100% pure from nature and cannot be synthetically manufactured. They are not just water to which essential oils have been added. Each hydrosol is unique, carries its own scent and taste, and has a perfect acid balance to match human skin.

    The highest quality hydrosols are obtained from distillers who are devoted strictly to the production of the waters to maximize the collection of every drop of plant essences. The hydrosols offered by the Abbey are produced in this manner. Aromatherapy wise-woman Jeanne Rose advances this view of hydrosol collection:

    The best comes from a distillation where it is the hydrosol that is being produced rather than the essential oil. Often the best comes from the earliest part of the distillation rather than the body of the distillation. This usually smells bright and pleasantly fragrant. Although, some of the therapeutic part of the hydrosol is also produced at the very end of the distillation, and usually has a rather grassy or vegetative note. As the plants are being distilled, micro-particles of essential oil are in suspension, they give the aromatic distillate its scent and will separate out as the hydrosol cools. There is approximately .02% essential oil in hydrosol.

    Hydrosols relieve a variety of skin conditions and promote emotional balance. The acidic nature of hydrosols makes them useful as astringents to constrict and contract tissues. They are excellent facial toners to clean, clear, and shrink pores, and tighten the skin. They are often antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory. They can calm sunburn, reduce razor bumps and burn, soothe diaper rash pain almost instantly, clear acne, reduce redness, and relieve itching. Some are emotionally calming whether the cause is stress, temper tantrums, dementia, depression, or menopause.

    Hydrosols are usually delivered without preservatives, or with minimal concentrations for safety and stability. The acidic nature of hydrosols naturally deters the growth of bacteria. (The reason vinegars are used to preserve foods.) While hydrosols are often recommended for internal use as well as external applications, we leave the ingestion of hydrosols to your discretion. We use an alcohol rinse for our hydrosol bottles but do not add additional preservative. While most pure hydrosols are given a shelf life of over two years, we prefer to be conservative and prefer a yearly renewal of hydrosols. We have reduced the size of our hydrosol bottles for this very reason.

    We love hydrosols. The fragrance of orange blossom neroli is second to none. Rose hydrosol is a main component of our Pomegranate Hydrating Mist. Yarrow becomes a summer staple as the season for stings, bites, and itching creeps up on us. We offer them in spray bottles but they can be mixed in with any other carrier you desire. Use caution not to contaminate the waters and keep refrigerated if you are not going to use it routinely. As summer arrives, a cold mist of mint hydrosol will do wonders to cool the heat.

    For the definitive book on hydrosols, consult Hydrosols: The Next Aromatherapy, by Suzanne Catty. Much of the our individual hydrosol information comes from this source, brought to you with Suzanne’s kind permission.

  • Ichthammol

    Ichthammol is a common old-time remedy called “black ointment” or “black drawing salve” used for many skin disorders. It has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antimycotic (fungal) properties and is well-known for its drawing effect.
    Its most common use is to draw inflammatory fluids and pus to the skin’s surface to treat acne blemishes, boils, abscesses, and carbuncles. Also often used to draw splinters to the surface of the skin by applying salve to the area, cover with a bandage, and after a day or two, use tweezers to withdraw foreign object from skin. Helps relieve the discomfort of insect stings and bites, mild fungal infections, eczema, psoriasis, and poison ivy.

    Ichthammol is a made by extraction from sulfur rich shale oil stone through a process of dry distillation. This is heating a solid (shale rock) to create a gas which is then condensed to a liquid or solid. The extracted ammonium bituminosulfonate is mixed with herbs or other oils/waxes to provide numerous uses as a natural curative treatment for various skin conditions.

    There are no identified detrimental side effects reported, including use by pregnant or nursing mothers. It is black and sticky and a covering such as a bandage protects clothing and linens.

    It should not be used internally, on deep wounds, or on mucous membranes. Conditions that last longer than 3-5 days should be looked at by a physician.

    Idebenone

    Idebenone (pronounced eedy-bee-known) may sound at first like the name of a fourth-world dictator. The skin-care savvy, though, know it to be one of the most effective skin rejuvenators available. Idebenone is impressive as a powerful antioxidant with the additional ability to decrease the breakdown of collagen. The result is firmer, smoother skin with fewer apparent lines and wrinkles. Idebenone also counters inflammation, making it helpful to layer under potentially discomforting ingredients, or to relieve irritation anywhere on the skin. Antioxidants are characterized by shades of yellow and the intense orange coloration of idebenone supports its potency. Idebenone is a key skin-care active in the Abbey’s Face Firming Concentrate Serum and is responsible for its characteristic color.

    Idebenone’s skin-care miracle was developed in the laboratory by researchers studying the therapeutic potential of Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ) for heart failure patients during the 1970s-80s. CoQ was a known natural compound in all aerobic organisms with a role in cellular energy production. It also reduces free radical damage. In the search for a more effective form of CoQ, scientists developed a safe derivative called idebenone. Structurally similar to CoQ, idebenone was a more potent antioxidant that could replace CoQ in the energy production cycle. And for scientists already familiar with CoQ’s ability to smooth skin wrinkles, it made sense to put this new CoQ analog into a skin cream and examine the results.

    In 2004 at the American Academy of Dermatology’s annual meeting, the researchers presented the findings from their clinical trial. They had directly compared the most effective skin-care defense compounds, which included vitamins C and E, CoQ, kinetin, and alpha-lipoic acid. Who would have guessed that once the results were in idebenone would offer the most protection against damaging free radicals? But it did. In part, that’s because idebenone is smaller and more agile than similar compounds, and thus more able to slip into dermal cells in the deepest layers of the skin and neutralize free radicals. But regardless of the reasons, skin was firmed, smoothed, and became more radiant.

    Idebenone is a true anti-aging ingredient that proactively protects the skin because it blocks the causes of aging and treats its effects.

    Research with idebenone show:
    -A 32% reduction in the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and crow’s feet after 1 month of application, increasing to a 57% reduction in 3 months.
    -A 34% improvement in the overall appearance of the skin after 1 month, increasing to 45% in 3 months.
    -A 33% reduction in the appearance of wrinkle depth after 1 month, increasing to 55% reduction in 3 months.

    While most products containing this super-antioxidant are very expensive (ca $100), the Abbey has made a commitment to providing you with the best ingredients at affordable prices. Face Firming Concentrate remains true to that promise.

    Finally, if all that were not enough, many Abbey St. Clare customers tell us that they successfully use Face Firming Concentrate not only as a beauty treatment, but also as a remedy for a variety of skin irritations: crusty patches, inflamed areas, burns, and even poison ivy. Now, we cannot guarantee results of any product, as all individuals are unique, but we have heard so many stories of diverse uses for our products that we encourage you to think out of the box when an unexpected skin-care issue arises. Nature’s pharmacy serves us well even when we least expect it.

    Immortelle

    See Helichrysum.

    Helichrysum is one of the strongest anti-inflammatory oils that is antifungal, antiviral, and antibacterial. It’s healing power is legendary as it decreases inflammation and encourages skin regeneration. It helps the skin respond to stress of any kind and mature skin responds especially well to helichyrsum’s restorative properties. It is especially useful in clearing the inflammation of acne. Helichrysum activates the right side of the brain, elevating awareness, dreaming, self-confidence, and opening the mind to new concepts and ideas.

  • Kaolin Clay (Koalinite), Pink/Rose

    Origin: France

    Similar to white kaolin but the presence of iron oxides gives it a tint. Gently cleanses and exfoliates while improving the skin’s circulation. Useful for sensitive, normal, to dry skin. It is often used as a colorant in natural soaps.

    Kaolin Clay (Koalinite), Red

    Origin: France

    Red kaolin clay is mildly absorbent and is used for deep cleansing and drawing impurities and excess oils from the skin. It is useful in facials and body wraps for normal skin. It is often used as a natural colorant in soaps.

    Kaolin Clay (Koalinite), White

    Origin: France

    This is the white form of kaolinite which is also know as China Clay. It is the mildest of all clays and suitable for the most sensitive skin. It helps stimulate circulation to the skin while gently exfoliating and cleansing. It helps absorb surface oil but does not draw oil from within the skin making it useful in treatments for all skin types.

  • Lanolin

    Lanolin is a fat from wool bearing animals. It is a by-product of the process that accompanies the removal of sheeps’ wool from the pelt. When emulsified to cosmetic grade it is used in ointments and salves to treat chapped lips, diaper rash, dry and itchy skin, rough feet, minor cuts and burns, and abrasions. It is often used as a raw material for producing Vitamin D3. Although lanolin is slightly antiseptic, it actually has no medicinal benefits. Its value lies in the ease with which it penetrates the skin, and facilitating the absorption of other medicinal chemicals.

    The name “Oil of Olay” is derived from the word lanolin, a key ingredient in the initial product developed by Graham Wulff.

    Linoleic Acid

    Linoleic acid (Omega 3) is an essential fatty acid, which means that it is needed for the body’s overall health maintenance. The body is unable to produce it so it must be constantly replenished. It is found in the lipids of cell membranes and helps maintain the health of the membrane, improves nutrient use, and establishes and controls cellular metabolism. Flaky, itchy, or rough skin is smoothed and moisturized. Thought to be helpful with skin disorders such as eczema.

    Liposomes

    Microscopic cell-like sacs made from phospholipids. (Phospholipids are a natural component of cell membranes, attracting and holding water in place, increasing the hydration level of the skin.) When properly mixed, phospholipids form liposome spheres, which can trap any substance that will dissolve in water or oil. Liposomes can improve delivery of active skin ingredients as they more easily penetrate the keratinized outer layers of the skin to underlying layers, carrying ingredients directly to the cell level.